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Bioč (Locations)

Mt Bioč is the largest group of peaks which are positioned between the deep canyons- Sutjeska Canyon on the west and Piva Canyon on the east. The largest crags in the area of these three mountains are located in this massif.

VrstaVrsta(The Sort) Peak is the predominant peak on the southern side of the Mratinje valley. It is characterized by an impressive north-east rock face, with the height of about 700m and the west rock face with the height of about 300m. North-east rock face with its exposed ridge forms, along with the west ridge of Oblik Peak, an amphitheatre of steep gulleys, and short rocky verticals extending to the north rock face of the barrier of Veliki Bioč and Gladište. In the rock face of Vrsta Peak there are two routes of 700 m, Istočni brid(The East Rim), IV and Centralni smjer(The Central Route), V, which were ascended 60-70 years ago but they still haven't got the first repeat!

The approach to the north-east rock face of Vrsta Peak goes from Mratinjsko Lake near the Mratinje village, through forest along the smaller lake to the screes below the rock.

OblikOblik_i_VrstaOblik(The Shape) Peak is located eastward from Vrsta Peak and its north rock face represents a logical direction of extension of the north-east rock face of Vrsta Peak. It has a height of 450m, and width of about 1000m. The approach is the same as for Vrsta Peak.


GladisteNorth rock face of Gladište Peak is the biggest rock of the group of Mt Bioč. It has the height of about 750m, and the width of about 3.5kms. In spite of its size it is hidden from the looks, almost from all sides. The approach to the crag goes from the Mratinje village along the herd path to the south, along the wooded slope to the meadows of the Oblik katun. Going along the south-eastern slopes of Oblik Peak through the forest one comes out onto the screes. Traversing the screes one comes out above the two karst sinkholes below the north rock face. Oblik katun can be reached from Mratinje Lake traversing the base of the north rock faces of Vrsta Peak and Oblik Peak. The imposing rock face of Gladište Peak is visible from the shores of the accumulation lake, or, more accurately, somewhere halfway from the road leading from Plužine to the Mratinje dam. The rock has not been ascended yet.